Un atlas de spots de surf hecho por surfistas para surfistas
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SPIKED

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12 years ago
10 years ago
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My Surf Profile

1990
Switchfooter
Shortboard / Thruster, Longboard, Towin Board, Fish, Big Wave Gun, Bodyboard, Skimboard, Single / Retro
Experienced (10-19 yrs)
Competitor
Only when I'm on vacation
I generally find myself cutting back at salt creek in dana point. But seeing how my bro's live in Huntington I spend a bit of time up there now.
The bone yard in dana point will always be my home...
Tripple Overhead
Head-High
Right Reef, Left Pointbreak, I love them all
Snap
Drop knee
Long ago, around Thanksgiving I was about 11 at the time, Salt Creek was going off... At that time I rode a '70's style fish, with only twin fins and it must have been 4inches thick. My mom picked me up from school early so I could go ride. I got to the beach and almost cried, it was friggin' HUGE!!! especially since I road a 5'2" board and it was still taller than me. I said screw it, mom set up her beach chair and I jumped into the enormous beach break. Paddling my head off I soon found that I couldn't make it through the huge white wash. So I started ditching my board and swimming like Hell... Finally I got to the break line, Monster's popped up infront of me like I had pissed-off the Lord of the sea. I pushed my board through the thick swell and soon found myself WAY!!! OFF SHORE... When I got there I didn't get any negative attitude from the guys already sitting in the line up. Oh no. They were concerened and wondered how the hell I had gotten out there, and what I thought I was gonna do to get back... An Old timer told me to take it easy for a while, maybe he thought it would settle down, he wanted me to catch my breathe. Wave after wave pushed through a couple time we had to paddle our heads off because the waves started breaking further out. I stuck next to the old guys on the big boards for a time. Eventually the Old timer told me,"these waves are comin' in shallow, not real big, paddle for one of those and when it peaks don't look back." So I paddled for a couple that seemed small enough, they were to small, then I would watch them jack up into one of those monsters I saw coming out. You could practically see the sand at the base of the wave. I was scared. I sat for a little while longer till some more of the medium sized waves came through, I paddled out will the rest of the lineup, the Old timer told me to paddle into this one, so I did. The wave picked me up so quick I wasn't sure if I should stand, I was in a drop knee for a moment till I saw the water boiling infront of me, I immediately jumped to my feet and cut into the face of the wave heading right, my back to the shore I saw this big black monster rising up through my finger tips. It was head high, till I looked down, shooting down the face of this black beast it got taller and taller, I looked behind me quickly as all sound around me went from my ears. A washing machine was chasing me and quickly catching up, I was in a blue tube standing streight up, I angled my board up and then thrust forward, as I shot out of the mouth of the beast I cut left HARD!!! The whole thing was comming down behind me, it knew I had defeated it. Crashing down like thunder, the beast gave me one more blow launching my board from under me towards the shore I went down into the water which I found to be less than a foot or two deep. Getting spit onto the shore in the next break, I got to my feet and ran into the cold sand, so the monsters couldn't have me back, I was all the way down at the point by Whitemans, the ride I had was from Gravels. It was an epic ride, I ran down the beach exhausted, happy, and proud. I got to my mom and asked,"Did you see that?" nope. She asked me where I had been and I told her my story.
Shane Dorian, Pat O'Conell, Robert "Wingnut", Sunny Garcia, and of course Laird Hamilton. There are many greats in my life.
Its been a long time for me. And that sux...

Personnal info

Dana Point
United States of America
Male
Just In (20-24yrs)

Surfed Spots

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Cantidad de spots de surf: 14

United States of America

14 spots de surf

LA County

Spot de surf GPS Atlas Rate Level Direction Type SS HS WL  
Chart House Normal Surfistas con experiencia Derecha Arrecife de rocas 23 1
Hermosa Beach Pier Normal Todos los surfistas Derecha y izquierda Rompiente orillera 142 3 8
Hermosa Pier Outside Puede ser Surfistas con experiencia Derecha y izquierda Arrecife artificial 9
Malibu Clase mundial Todos los surfistas Derecha Rompiente en la punta 419 26 33
The Hut - Paradise Cove Normal Surfistas con experiencia Derecha Arrecife de rocas 14 1 5
Venice Breakwater Clásico regional Surfistas con experiencia Derecha y izquierda Rompiente/Malecón 110 5 3
Waterfalls Normal Surfistas con experiencia Derecha Arrecife de rocas 2
Zeroes Normal Surfistas con experiencia Derecha y izquierda Rompiente en la punta 103 6 7
Zuma Beach Normal Todos los surfistas Derecha y izquierda Rompiente orillera 209 8 6

San-Clemente-Island

Spot de surf GPS Atlas Rate Level Direction Type SS HS WL  
A Frames Clásico regional Surfistas con experiencia Derecha y izquierda Arrecife de rocas 4
Birdhits Clase mundial Profesionales o Kamikazes... Izquierda Rompiente en la punta 9 1 2

Orange County

Spot de surf GPS Atlas Rate Level Direction Type SS HS WL  
Salt Creek : Gravels Clásico regional Surfistas con experiencia Derecha y izquierda Rompiente orillera 144 5 4

San Diego County

Spot de surf GPS Atlas Rate Level Direction Type SS HS WL  
Sunset Cliffs - Osprey Clásico regional Surfistas con experiencia Derecha y izquierda Arrecife de rocas 132 11 9
Windansea Clásico regional Surfistas con experiencia Derecha y izquierda Arrecife de rocas 184 6 7

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Cantidad de viajes de surf: 0

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