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Session: Great waves

Written by Splaktar show Splaktar profile

Monday January 28 2008 05:30:00 PM

Surf spot: San Bartolo, Peru

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 1

Length of the surf session: 90 min

Surfboard ridden: Bodyboard

Fins: Yes

Weather and water temp: 80 F, 62 F

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak


This was my first time in the 2nd part (middle) of San Bartolo (the rights just to the right of the largest jetty).  Also my first time in San Bartolo at mid-rising tide.  It was also my first time entering/exiting the water from a jetty/rocks.  It went pretty well though and the rocks were fairly smooth (a few small snails and other things, but no urchins or sharp shells). 

It took me a bit to get the hang of the area.  There's a nice rip right alongside the jetty, so after a ride you can paddle over towards the jetty and it'll shoot you right back out to the lineup (awesome!).  I wasn't going out too far as I was looking for some of the mid sized (5-7 footers) waves rather than the 6-8+ foot waves that were out there. 

I had some problems catching the waves at first due to the fact that they back off a bit in a certain spot.  Eventually I watched some of the locals and they were waiting for the wave to partially break and then they'd catch it in the partially breaking whitewater knowing that it would back off, reform and not close on them.  I caught one this way pretty easilly (though it was a bit hard to see with all the splash and I was going towards the rocks).  But after that I started to cramp up.  I fought through the cramps for a while, but each time when I'd be able to catch a wave they'd come back, so I had to head in.

Paddling back to the shore w/o being able to catch waves is a bit of a pain.  There are a lot of rocks, so going to the shore can be a bit hazardous.  Also getting close to the jetty for your exit is a bit tough due to the rip.  So you have to take a wide berth around the jetty and then angle towards it and catch it before the rip pulls you out.  I managed OK, but w/ both legs cramped up to hell it was a lot of arm paddling.


Created: Tuesday January 29 2008 04:06:43 PM

Modified: Tuesday January 29 2008 04:06:43 PM

Hits: 1354

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