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Friday July 10 2009 07:00:00 AM
Surf Trip: Hot August nights ... ( 17 August 2007 - 17 August 2007)
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: Tons
Length of the surf session: 3 min
Surfboard ridden: 9'0" Quad
Weather and water temp: 75F/70F
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Latest Update: July 9th, long period 190 degree southern hemi swell with chest to head high sets and glassy conditions combined with a minus low tide made for some real screamers from middles across Crabs! You only made a few all the way, you were really flying down the line! On my first wave barely made the takeoff then the fins started slipping sideways through the first section. Made it through that, no time for off the lips, just peeling too fast, got a cheater five up on nose for 50 yards before I got gobbled up! Wham, bam, thank you mam ...
Thursday morning last week, supposed to be poor to fair but some chest to shoulder high + sets coming in at Cuda's. Mostly green rollers on the high tide push with some morning sickness, but every now and then a gem!
Cuda's 7 AM Tuesday/Wednesday. The early morning haze burnt off by 8 AM and it must have been 75F already! No wind and glassy conditions until 10 AM when the normal summer light onshore sea breeze moved in. Knee to waist SW swell with a few chest high sets. Fade deep into the peak by the north sea wall then snap around on your backhand and run up the nose in the suckup on the inside sandbar or take off on the other side of the peak and pump through the middle of it then bounce off the lip as you come out on your forehand.
Only a few of us out there Deon with his inflatable SUP (when he lets the air out it comes out with a real bang, says it scares the shit out of all the dogs getting walked) Eric (Bongo Peterson) Uncle Jay and the lovely 16 year old Christine ... OK keep it clean boys. Note: Jay told me he saw Stuart (Bruce 11) at Bolsa Chica after escaping from custody last Monday ... walked over to his SUV and yelled "Hey Bruce" only to spot his wife Mary Kay ... he beat a hasty retreat!
Note Mr. Gangrene (from the Stingray hit) is going to be OK, he was going out for the first time in weeks ... his toe almost looks normal!
Created: Thursday July 2 2009 05:55:09 AM
Modified: Saturday July 11 2009 02:31:50 AM