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Wednesday August 8 2012 12:05:25 PM
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 0:50 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'0" Fish Maurice Cole
Weather and water temp: Air : 29°C. Water: 26°C
I didn't expect any waves in this area of Kyushu but there was a big typhoon just 2 days before. I woke up at 5h30 and tried to go the the beach near the Kaimon Dake (a wonderful volcanoe looking like the Fujisan). I drove along the coast without being able to come close to the beach. On a big bridge, I discovered that there were some waves but no access ! I continued until I just turn left towards the sea... ANd It was rewarding : I just arrived at maybe the best sandbank around !
Beautiful 1.20m waves, no winds and few surfers. On the main peak, I took 3 waves and finished in a big shore break when my leash (2 years old in Japan) broke...argh !!!
And the waves were still good !
I just took a small rope on the beach and went back to surf on a different peak.
I was so happy to surf at least ont time in Japan !
Created: Sunday October 7 2012 12:14:47 PM
Modified: Sunday October 7 2012 12:14:47 PM