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Session: Big with the Yakuza...

Written by yann

Wednesday August 8 2012 04:30:00 PM

Surf spot: Oniguchi, Japan

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 5

Length of the surf session: 0:45 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'0" Fish Maurice Cole

Weather and water temp: Air : 29°C. Water: 26°C

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

After visiting Kyushu, I came back at the same spot to catch few waves. I discovered a Hummer at the little parking. A Hummer ? in Japan where there is only very naarrow roads ?

When I came on the beach, the swell was bigger : a solid 1.5m - 2m with 5 surfers. I jumped in the water with my yellow-old-with-a-rope board. The surfers had dark regards covered with tatoos. Tatoos in Japan are done by Yakuza. It explained the hummer - Gloups -

So I stayed as a little mouse...And managed to take 5 beautiful and big rights ! It was a very good surf.

I finished at the end of the day in the most beautiful hot bath I have ever found in Japan ("healthy land") : you watch 2 mountains, the pacific and the Kaimon Dake in a large 270° landscape.