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Trip: Boo Hoo ... you really missed it!
Thursday April 12 2007 04:56:51 AM
Date: from Apr 11, 2007 to Jun 7, 2007
Surf trip description:
Dawn breaks on a “June Gloom” Wednesday April morning in SOCAL. Fog, lowclouds with just a whisper of SE Catalina coastal eddy. The surf forecast ... peaking long period, southern hemi SW swell , clean morning conditions with a manageable mid morning high tide and sets from shoulder to overhead plus!
"The Long Way Round"
We had arranged to meet early by my work which is by the 405 Freeway in Long Beach ... destination one of the best waves in the world ... Malibu. We head north on the 405 ... traffic is heavy for a weekday, thank god we are in the carpool lane (two of more people) then the news flash, Pacific Coast Highway is blocked both directions, from Sunset Boulevard to the Santa Monica 10 Freeway south and north to Topanga Canyon due to a double fatality head on wreck!
OK lets go around it ... yeah right! Traffic comes to a grinding halt as we hit the Santa Monica 10 freeway interchange ... we struggle on ... a 40 minute, 40 mile drive is now over an hour and 60 miles ... we miss the 101 Ventura South and finish up on the 5 north to San Francisco ... turn around and hit traffic going back!
Finally its after 8AM and we find the offramp for Topanga Canyon Road 10 miles of narrow switchback canyon turns in a massive Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Crew Cab pickup powered by an 8.1 liter V8 that has sucked up 10 gallons in 100 miles. Tires squealing and bouncing around the bends past million dollar hideaways of movie stars tucked into the live oak trees we burst onto Pacific Coast Highway just in time to catch a glimpse of someone tucked into a shoulder high tube on the reef at Topanga!
“Wow!” says Stuart my OZ buddy who has never surfed up here “Lets find a parking spot.” thinking its the Boo ...“Naw ... keep going north its still a few miles yet.”
We arrive ... its 8:30AM and its GOING OFF!
Malibu has sand and cobblestone bottom, three point breaks, a pier, a creek and a lagoon. The outer point has kelp beds and is a hard breaking fast tube that grinds over the reef. The middle break is a peak than runs into a bowl that runs into a boomerang that runs into a long , long wall ... half way to the pier.
You only make one in three waves from either the outside or the middle break but when you do ... WOW!
First point is a perfect wave but you are three deep on a good day!
We paddled out in the small bay in the middle... the tide high enough we didn’t have to rock hop and avoided the rip and the whitewater.
Easy paddle right into the lineup without even getting my hair wet. First wave ... took off on a inside shoulder high peak, crouched low as I got covered up through the bowl, the wave crunching on the tail of my 9’2” Jean -Luc Robert’s performance longboard, knocking it sideways and then spitting me out onto the shoulder!
Malibu is usually a paper thin, perfect shape, toes on the nose or climbing and dropping wall ... not today ... never seen it break so hard and fast particularly with an incoming tide ... the section’s were coming down in sheets!
Next good wave ... same story ... shoulder high inside peak ... but this time feeling more confident and the wave sucking less hit the bowl in a high line, screaming cheater five, yelling at some guy trying to drop in ... made it out to the shoulder my 7” center fin slipping slightly as the wave broke ... couple of turns up the nose again then back and out before I hit a close-out section.
Found the best way back to the line up was take the whitewater to the sand, walk back up to the bay and paddle from there ... otherwise you had a long paddle with a strong rip with heavy sets with guys crashing into each other right in front of you.
Got caught inside as a beauty a couple of feet overhead swept through ... some bare chest guy in (54F water 56F) air outside got lucky and rode it almost all the way to the pier. I caught the next big one ... hit the bowl and it stood way up, suspended, towering over me ... would have been epic ... then not one but two guys dropped in on the shoulder and collided ... I bailed out and called it a day ... two and a half hours, cold water, beat up from getting hammered on the ones I didn’t make and shivering even in my 4/3 with the building light onshore breeze.
Stuart being his first time there never really got the feel of the place. He paddled out to the kelp bed by the outer point and tried to take off inside the hot shot shortboarders .. wrong ... got totally smashed or dropped in on. He finally came back inside and caught a couple of smaller ones.
Outside guys on modern quad fish were ripping ... pump pump ... cover-up ... pump pump ... tail side ...pump pump ... floater ... pump pump ... boom! On the really clean big sets guys were riding all the way across ... one young kid went way out on the shoulder did a roundhouse cutback and as he hit the lip pulled off two 360’s down the face then pump pump out to the shoulder again!
The cameras were knee deep on the sand as we dashed across PCH dodging traffic including a Ferrari and a Lambo to Jack In the Box for a late breakfast, laughing as a Mexican nanny struggled with tow head young twins (a boy and girl) outfitted with blue leather reins and both running different directions.
Thank God the road was open on the way home and an hour later hit the sack without even taking a shower for a two hour nap! Life without a wife!
Modified: Thursday June 7 2007 11:24:06 PM
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|Date||Surf spot||Session's Rate||Wind direction||Waves height||Author|
|Show||06-07-2007||Seal Beach||No wind||1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft||DrC123|
|Show||11-04-2007||Malibu||2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft||DrC123|