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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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question - what is name of surf spot in movie island magic. on kauai i think had t shaped wood pier and then a reef out in front of it. it was the most beautiful place i have ever seen. hate to sound like a geek but im curious. didnt see it mentioned in any of these spots.....im from florida.....thanks.....
- Tell a couple waikoko memories so one day it was kinda big... about 8' maybe...this was in the days when nobody used leashes... So I'm paddling like crazy so I don't get stomped by the approaching set...big set... and I make the first one... nobody knew about duck diving in those days...this was by the peak part...closest to the pali.... and then comes the second one...bigger.. and that beautiful waikoko dark green... and its clean and its big... and if i had tried i couldnt have picked the impact zone better... so I grab my board... wrapped my arms and legs around it in a bear hug for dear life.... didn't wanna go swim for my board... but faster than the blink of an eye the wave took the board out of my bear hug like i was nothing. 7'6 it was...yellow keo and osh special...it went flying and I hadda go chase it... so thats one story
heres the other... so one day i was out at Waikoko... ad i catch this wave...nice one...maybe 6 or 7 feet... and I'm like in the clear and having fun and then all of a sudden my board stops and I keep going.... i landed in such a way where i could bodysurf in on the same wave i was riding.... but heres the thing...it wasnt the reef that stopped my board... I was too high on the wave and still out far enough where the reef wasnt a factor.... I never did find out wht stopped my board...but it stopped cold... it came in on the next wave... I looked it over and no dings or anything.. never did figure it out....
nother waikoko story... theres a movie out there some place that Eric Johnson made one day... if its still around in some dusty box some place.... so i catch this wave.. and its not real bu=ig that day...maybe head or shoulder high...and i go for the head dip...and i never got out of it...it was like taking a shower for 50 or 75 feet... lip smashing my head all the way...couldnt see where i was going... musta looked hilarious on film.... i never got to see the movie...
that brings to mind another story... but it was pakala... maybe it was 6 or 8 feet.... so i take off and make the turn at the bottom and theres this section... and i almost make it...but not quite... so i'm in the foam trying to make the glass... but its like im not gaining ground and I'm not losing ground... just stuck in the foam about two feet from where i can get out of it and onto the face... but it must looked funny... there was these two guys paddling out and they came real close to where i had been on this thing stuck in the foam for maybe 10 seconds already...paddling with one hand hard to try to catch up the break... so as these guys get close i see they are laughing...and the one guy says when he gets within ear range..."what you doing haole? you nuts or what?" it was so funny i fell off my board laughing... we musta laughed for a couple minutes.... those were the days....
jerkoffs - never seen such a disrespectful bunch of meth heads in my life. you greedy, ungrateful muhfuckas should show a little enthusiasm to those keeping your bum asses from starving and bringing some money to you. i can't believe you call yourselves surfers. you're no better than a bunch of thugs regulatin their turf. keep smokin that ice, you're goin nowhere.
Not hassled in 30 years? LOL!!! - Then either you surf places that are so weak, or you are a huge local boy yourself, or are a cute girl, because any haole male that has been around HI long enough, especially in the 80s, and at certain spots, would have at least once been threatened if not beaten by a local Hawaiian boy, or had your board smashed up, or otherwise been dropped in on hundreds of times because they think they can do anything being born Hawaiian. Fact is, its these self-righteous bad boyz that screw up the sport for those with true aloha who go out there to just surf, have fun and give some waves too. It is very rare here to see a local let a wave or two pass - no, they are very greedy amd adamant to take all! So much for aloha, and your BS 30-year story... unless you are a pretty chick who they eye for hitting up... which it sounds like.
Kauai - I've been surfing 30+ years all over the world. I have never been hassled in Hawaii, ever. It really seems like the Aloha spirit still lives if it lives in you. The most negative vibe actually comes from these message boards! It's like driving on the freeway. A person's attitude towards the other guy while nestled inside the protection of a car is a lot different than when you are sitting next to him (or her) in the lineup , isn't it?
Por baja malibu LOC
F*ck!ng CHILL! - What has this world come to that there cant even be ONE nice thing said in the comments of all of Hawaii?!? THE birthplace of surfing,aloha and family values??? Ive read all of the comments and its pretty disheartening to hear these things from the surfing community, we are all suposed to be brothers and sisters and stewards of the ocean. Hawaii would be very different if it were not for tourism. and the world and its people would be very different without Hawaii. If EVERYONE showed respect, we wouldnt need localism. Vsitors would know thier boundaries/ wave limit and locals would encourage people and give the TRUE aloha spirit. I am running into the same problem in my home of san diego. But Im trying to cope and adapt to this new surfing world. Its not getting any better either so smoke a fatty and just f*ck!ng CHILL!!!
to That Loser who says we have to share kauai - What are you talking about? your going to get you a** kicked if you ever come to hawaii
waikokos eats boards - I totally dinged up a Merrick that I rented from the snorkel depot when I surfed at Waikokos. Watch out for the reef. I put a long gash on the bottom after riding into shore my first time there. (luckily they didn't charge me for it)Fun spot, but when the tide comes in and the wind picks up don't get stuck inside.
- go play with your ipod you kook. And stay the f out of kauai
Hmm, guess you misunderstood... - It seems that you misunderstand the purpose of this site. It is designed to share information, not block information. So, if you like to search for you own surf spots, please do so, and let others decide for themselves. I know it's hard, but you'll have to live with the fact that we now have internet... and also, airplanes, satellites, and digital cameras. Yeah, you wish you could go back to the last century and have Hawaii all for yourself. Well, that's too bad, you'll have to share.
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