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Sesiones: Fast Swell

Escrito por yann show yann profile

Tuesday 19 August 2008 11:00:00

Sitio de surf: Ataka, Japan

Viaje: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore/Cerca de tierra

Wind Strength: Fuerte

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 60 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2'' Aiko, rusty

Weather and water temp: Air: stormy, hot Water: 26C

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Espumante
- Potente
- Hueca
- Desigual

Waves Shape:
- Bowl
- Close out


I knew the swell was coming.But at 9am, it was completely flat. And I have to surf before 12 because we will go for a trip.

I decided to come back at 10h30. Waves were 50cm... I wait half an hour and waves increase until 70cm. I jumped into the water just to surf something.

0808japan015 the beginning of the session: smalle waves

But after 20mn, swell increased and I get fun 1,20m waves:

0808japan016 the right started to work

But the swell continued to increased until 1,50 solid!

0808japan017 It broke outside tripods.

As I was alone and the outside current was strong, I decided to stop.


Creado en: Thursday 21 August 2008 09:40:20

Modificado en: Thursday 21 August 2008 09:41:15

Vistas: 2650

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