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Session: Only barrel this year at PBs

Written by haircut_mcgregor show haircut_mcgregor profile

Wednesday January 3 2007 06:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Pambula Beach, Australia

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 15-25

Length of the surf session: 240 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'5 Oke custom shortboard

Fins: 3

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Ledgey
- Fast

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
- Close out


I saw a good swell early on the morning, and drove to the merimbula bar, i was looking there at about 7:00am, 40 or so guys out, which put out of contention, merimbula main was big, nasty and generally pretty unsurfable looking, upset by the short drives lack of luck we drove back to pambula to find that the swell had picked up and lookied clean, fast and hollow. i paddled out as quick as possible and found a bank to myself, i caught a few closeouts, but still ha enough time to do a small quick carve or hit the lip as it was closing out (it was 2-3ft at this stage), i paddled to a new bank when josh paddled out, my first few waves closed out to quickly and throwing me over the falls. i got my confidence up and paddled for one of the bigger waves of the morning, as i took my bottom turn i saw an opening section, i tucked myself in and saw the lip throw itself over me, i sat for a second or so before i tried to pump my way out (unsuccesfully) and ended up copping the section on my head, throwing me off my board, that day me and josh got countless fun closeouts, and even a few peelers, we had the bank to ourselves till around 9:00 when the rest of the crew paddled out.


Created: Wednesday January 17 2007 05:57:40 AM

Modified: Wednesday January 17 2007 05:57:40 AM

Hits: 2852

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