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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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Por Morgan Phillips , 15-07-2010
At least some show some respect - See. Now attitudes like that are cool. Frewuigi, you are completely different from the crew that are invading the beach. Dude, not just I am getting kwaai, all the locals are fucked off proper. Ok, seriously, I rode over some townie idiot trying to drop in on me, reprimanded him, dodged a few lame punches he threw, sat on his board and explained that we really, really don't like him in the water. His response, to someone born there 32 years ago, was that he was more of a local that I was. Because he bought a wetsuit and a board from a local shop, the same one I worked at for five years, and spent all my income at. This shit is common. And you know what, the banks have actually been pretty damn shit this year, and that kook drove past at least six cooking point breaks on his way from Durban, but wouldn't know to surf them because he just doesn't know any spot that is not on TV once. This winter we had the further joy of film crews and local journalism that centered solely on southbroom. It has had an impact, a bad one. The good thing is,most of the local surfers who come here cannot make the paddle, let alone the drop, at over four foot. The bad thing is I have to watch them pull back, paddle like girls and blow tubes when it is small and cooking. And even as a vaalie, you must have noticed how very few of the town (durban, umhlanga) clowns give any respect. We actually now recognize one or two faces, and know the kook idiots are going to try and paddle us deeper. Nowadays, we have stopped being nice. I see visitors getting dropped in on a bit, and it stokes me. See you on the beach brah, you sound OK.
Por frewuigi , 05-02-2010
frewuigi - Morgan bru why so kwaai ?? you need to smoke abit more south coast banana leaf to match your yellow board and chill . We wont paddle you on the inside ....maybe on the outside but not on the in rite .Im a vaalie , a global shifter with no local break so sometimes Im not sure where to sit in the lineup but one thing is for sure I give respect to okes who can surf and who do reciprocate that . The times I have surfed broomies the locals have been cool and friendly and and that pretty much goes for most of SA compared to the rest of the world . You guys have a quality break and because of the current birthrate you have to share it wether you like it or not . 29 years earns you the right but repect is quite another issue . p.s my last session there we got chased by a rather large shark . It was a jol .
Por Anonymous , 31-10-2009
Morgan - So, still no reply. See everyone real soon, coming back home. Still ride a yellow board, still not stoked at being paddled around or called an idiot. See you all behind the bricks.
Por Anonymous , 12-05-2008
i ride A yellow board, one of thousands globally - wowee........that is great....must be so cool to have the pic posted on sixty40 as brighton beach (last i saw) and as southbroom.....good times let me help you out:I never claimed to be the 'bodyboarder in the picture'... I currently ride a yellow NMD player,and included my reference to a yellow board for your identification and future safekeeping in the event of thinking it cool to paddle around and drop in as long as the consequences aren't too severe, as you seemed to suggest in an earlier post.If i was claiming a shot, I would say something like this: 'I am the rider with the yellow board in the shot posted on this site'. Look out for similar phrases in the future, and you might not reveal that you post faked shots of bodyboarders to liven things up. real cool. It will hurt to hear this, but many,many other riders have made the same colour choice, not just the rider in your brighton/southbroom shot.Should i change my board in the time between us meeting, look for the guy way on your inside who you really would rather not piss off. I am not making a large thing out of nothing.Firstly, I am responding to being called a retard, and being told that I and my friends lack the intelligence to spell local. Secondly,I was born in southbroom, and have lived there for 29 years. Over the past few, the influx of durban and north coast surfers and accompanying camera/video crews has increased alarmingly, along with standard influx of 'vaalies and kooks'.The phenomenon of word of mouth is very real, and one surfer showing ten of his friends footage of cooking Southbroom has a noticeable affect. Sure....the localism scene isn't as hardcore as the irrelevant USA beaches you mentioned, but it is not a beach where any of the locals I know are stoked over surfers who 'paddle around and drop in'. Neither are any of them stoked with being called stupid. You say you grew up here, you must know Karl, Andrew, louis,Terrence, Morris and the other locals, right? And you are OK calling them retards. That is great.What is your name buddy?Mine is Morgan Phillips, as you grew up here, you know me. I thought I might be arguing with a friend of mine, but none of them would publicly belittle any of the locals.
Por Anonymous , 03-05-2008
what bull - i added that picture!!!...haha, what a mullet...trying to act like your something when i bloody added that photo. Im from the south coast bru, dont act like im not. Of course im sick of kooks and vaalies, all i was saying is that localism at southbroom is overrated and people musnt be afraid to join the line up...seriously you really made something out of nothing (just like your claim on the photo)...by the way that picture wasnt even taken near southbroom, i just added it cause southbroom had only 2 photos. idiot, its neither of us...im no kooky bodyboarder either
Por Anonymous , 27-04-2008
Morgan - Furthermore, perhaps you can clear something up for me. In what way does free- associating a list of American surfspots justify any of the issues previously raised? I am thrilled, truly, that you are aware of the existence of these beaches, it must make you a real hit at social functions. This is Southbroom, we live here, and we are saying: Don't drop in, do not paddle around. We are not out to prevent people entering the water, but we are sick of the kook blowins who demonstate the attitude presented below , namely, the localism isn;t heavy, it is OK to drop in and paddle around. i am the bodyboarder with the yellow board, come sit paddle onto my inside
Morgan - no, what you said was : "Its a lot more than i guy getting bummed about you dropping in or paddling on the inside..." only kooks paddle around or drop in.Please try that, and see exactly how bummed the locals get. By the way, before levelling criticism regarding others spelling, learn the difference between the character 'i' and the digit '1'.They are very diffeent, unless you are dealing with imaginary numbers (square root of -1, you retard) FYI, I am an electronic engineer who placed in the finals of the national champs, the terms 'Kook' and 'retard' are far more applicabel to those who drop in, paddle around and swap numerics for letters.
Por Anonymous , 17-04-2008
see what i mean? - you just proved that locals at southbroom are complete retards well done... Trigg Point in Perth is as localized as hell. Geraldton locals hate anyone. Huntington Beach Calif, is very crowded and totally local...San Clemente has breaks which you cant even paddle into if your not local, Imperial Beach San Diego ...the list can go on you 'kook' obviously you got the rules at each different place...all i was saying is that the whole localism scene its very overrated at southbroom.
Por Morgan , 19-01-2008
- l-o-c-a-l W.Oz, Maldives and portugal....whooowheee, real hotbeds of localism based animosity those.the first two are near deserted (if you are doing things right), and Portugal is so mellow it's funny. So, in all your travels, it never occured to you that dropping in and paddling around is not an acceptable practice, no wonder you thought that localism was so heavy there, those guys were probably out of towners who just didn't appreciate you dicking around. Let me help: Don't drop in Don't paddle around Don't be a kook See you in the tube
Por Anonymous , 18-12-2007
overrated localism - this was my homebreak throughout school and when i moved and travelled around to places like California, Western Oz, Maldives and Portugal i realized what localism is. Its a lot more than i guy getting bummed about you dropping in or paddling on the inside...localism at southbroom is overrated so dont worry...the guys probably cant spell 'local' so just get in and surf!
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